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The shifting has not been very good on my bike and the way it had been acting I was affraid that maybe something was going bad in the trans. It was "hanging" in second and when it did that it took a lot of effort to get it into third. It felt like the throw was really long. So, I decided to play around last night with the shift linkage and what a difference! The first thing I did was to move the linkage rod down to the lower hole on the shift peg. I also lengthened the shift rod by about 2mm. What an improvement! The shifts took a lot less effort and were bang on except that now it became a little difficult to find neutral. So, I checked my clutch play and increased my clearance between the outside plate and the retaining clip ring to just under 6mm (it was around 4.5mm). It's a completely different bike! The shifts are quick and positive and I can find neutral without a problem. I tried a search to see if anyone had any comments on aligning the shift mechanism but I couldn't find anything except a thread about reversing the shift pattern so I thought I'd post my results in hopes that it helps someone.

I have to alter the linkage rod length according to what boot I wear! An old upright riding position doesn't adapt that well to modern armored leathers.

or footdrops

ahdoman wrote:The first thing I did was to move the linkage rod down to the lower hole on the shift peg.

I looked at my bike, I don't have a second hole, just the hole where you moved yours to.

Perhaps someone added a second hole to your machine's lever?

Some of the older shifters had two holes in them. I don't know why. The inside one is no fun at all, unless you liked a really long throw at the pedal.

Make sure the short arm on the shift shaft is positioned so that you can shift into second. After a shop visit, the mechanic moved it over one tooth and I could not get it into second gear when I left. Turned right around and drove back into the shop.

Cheers, Phil

ducinthebay - I've been trying to figure out why one tooth would make a difference as long as the arm was oriented in the down position. It looks like if the arm is too far forward it will hit the side stand mechanism and that could prevent you from being able to shift. But, as long as it clears that and is in a relatively vertical position it shouldn't affect the shifting? The adjustment holes in the shifter arm affect the throw and the length of the rod affects the vertical position of the foot peg. Is there some geometry I'm missing?

In thinking back, it was actually on my ST. The short arm would run into the alternator housing and would limit the travel. the alternator is smaller on the Sport, so may not have the same situation.

In response to Ahdomen & ducinthebay, when I replaced the shifter shaft seal, I installed the front shift shaft arm in what I thought was the same position from where I had removed it. First ride, I kept getting stuck in neutral on a 1-2 shift, or had it pop out of 2nd and thought maybe the Tranny was on its way out. I rotated the arm 1 notch clockwise and it has shifted as good as a Paso 750 can shift ever since. I checked all clearances and there were no physical limitations or binding on the shift arm side or shift lever side in either scenario. I can't figure out for the life of me how the geometry of moving it 1 notch would make such a difference. The leverage points all seem to remain constant. I've decided to accept it and filed it under "character". If someone has a better explanation I would like to hear it.