ducatipaso.org

leider ist mein englisch nicht vom feinsten, daher schreibe ich deutsch ............
wen von euch jemand das ganze übersetzen kann dann bitte mach es.

Da sind einige bilder meiner ersten paso die ich vor jahre umbaute, wenn jemand von euch einen sonderwunsch in sachen verschalung umbauten oder reparaturen hat der kann sich bei mir melden auch in englisch!!!

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid= ... =3&theater

bei mir stehen noch 5 paso in der garage die ich schlachten werde wenn jemand teile braucht dem kann ich eventuell helfen.
man findet mich auch in facebook unter

http://www.facebook.com/pages/VYRUS-by- ... 5309421123

gruss man

GERHARD, please write with german language to Your "neibourhoods" that these websites are made for english language. and ESPECIALLY SIMPLE SUCH, that as many as possible can understand.....

Is such "too much" asked from Germans???

Antti

He says since his english is not so good he will right in german

He also ask if someone would translate it for him


He also says he can help anyone with repairs and includes a link to his Paso and says he still has 5 in his garage if
someone needs parts they can't find
and tells how to get a hold of him on facebook where he can converse in english


I think G? Is that about right ?

Antti, I would disagree with you. Of course this forum is mainly english but it`s open to any Paso owner so if someone needs help and doesn`t know english he should post in his own language and if lucky someone from his own country will reply. Of course it would be nicer if everybody could understand to help better.

Steve is about right with his translation.


He posts pictures of his first Paso which he modified a couple of years ago. He says if someone has special wishes regarding fairing modifications or repairs you can contact him (also in english)

He has 5 Pasos in his garage he will part out so if someone needs parts he can eventually help.
He`s also on Facebook.
He`s located in Switzerland.

I agree with Higgy and G on this one Antti. With the combined skills of people on this forum the odd translation shouldn't be a problem.

Man, Ich muss naechtes Jahr einige Risse in die Schraublocher in die Schale meines Paso reparieren. Hasst du sonsst eininge tips?

(Man, next year I may need to repair some tears starting from the screw holes in my fairings. Any tips? )

Cheers,

Mike

Seems like no mater what you use they crack eventually. Cracked tanks and loose fairing stays are the big culprit.
In my experience resin works better than epoxies. I find whats available at your local boat facilities holds up the longest. Nylon bushings help a little as well. Careful fitting of the tank and fairing stay to limit stress on the fairings during assembly works the best. It is a real PIA but i try to secure the tank and stay after fitting all the panels

@ Paso Roo

wie schon Higgy gesagt hat funktioniert es mit Polyester Harz am besten.
Das besten Resultat erreichst du wenn du die Löcher komplett zu laminierst indem du beidseitig die alten Löcher etwas ansenkst so das der flick wie eine Niete wirkt.
Wenn alles trocken ist am besten 1 oder 2 Tage stehenlassen danach neu bohren
mit einem 3er Bohrer und das Endmass mit einer Rundfeile von beiden Seiten neu feilen.

translated:

as higgy said it works best with polyester resin.
You`ll get the best result if you close the holes completely. Therefore countersink the holes from both sides and laminate a small patch on both sides which will work similar to a rivet. Let that dry for a day or two and the drill the holes again. Start with a 3mm drill and then use a round file from both sides to get back to the correct hole size.

I think it depends how bad the cracks are. If they are only haircracks it may be sufficient to mix some resin, then bend the part carefully to open the cracks slightly and apply some resin in them with a fine paint brush. Let the part loose and dry. If you did a good job and used only very little resin you may only have to sand the area with a very fine sandpaper and then polish. Of course if you made a mess with the resin, countersunk the holes etc you`ll have a paint job waiting.

As usual gentlemen: great information!

G, if I tried to fill the (hairline) cracks with resin, do I have to use anything to treat the fairing before applying the resin to make sure I get a good bond?

Higgy, in relation to the tank and fairing, are you saying to fasten the two bolts holding the tank down after mounting the fairing panels? I'm assuming that by the fairing stays you mean the metal subframe around the headlight?

The cracks around the bolts are just small ones at the moment so I might try G's method first. If this does not deliver a sufficient result I figure I can always resort to the full countersink-and-cover-the-holes method. As a matter of fact, I have a spare side panel on which I might do a practice run to see if I'm any good at this process at all. I may end up firmly glued to my garage floor .

Yes,the fairing stay that holds the headlight and is secured at the steering neck.

The lower bolts are easy, they 2 at the stem are hard to get to

you can slide them around so that they put a minimum of stress on the panels

Polyester resins come with an activator, the less activator you use the more flexible is the end result. You will need to experiment to get just enough activator so that it flashes slowly

If you repair a broken glassfibre part like the one below it`s important you remove all the paint and primer before you apply the resin and glassfibre mat to get a proper bond.


If you only want to close hair line cracks you just need to get some resin inside the cracks (meaning inside the glassfibre). It may be sufficiant to warp the part a little to open the cracks. Best is to have a helper. You`d have to be gentle not to break something that`s already cracked. The excessive resin will dry on the paint so use a very thin paint prush and apply very little. You better not try to wipe it off as you`ll probably smear it all around and have fuzz of the rag or paper towel sticking everywhere
If you did it right you can sand the area with a 600 and finer wet just to remove the resin on the paint. If you manage to do this without sanding through the clearcoat you can polish the area back to shine. If all goes well the cracks will be fixed but of course you`ll still see the hair line cracks in the paint.
Definetely not a job for someone clumsy

Polyester resins come with an activator, the less activator you use the more flexible is the end result.

I`d have to disagree on this one. The less hardener/activator you use the longer it will take to dry. If you take too little the resin may not dry at all. Normal would be 3%. (2-4% actually and eventually a bit more if the temperatures are really low) There`s no impact in the flexibility of the part which is only determined by thickness of the mats and number of layers.
Always work in the shade and if you have to cut glasfibre mats for what you`re doing do that before you mix the resin. Or the soaked patch will be hardened before you can apply it

Hot climates require less MEKP ,1% is a slow cure in Aus,2% will only give about 10-15 mins in large mixes at 25 celcius, more in small batches.Slower cures are stronger than fast cures,according to all of the information I can find.Use acetone wiped onto old fibreglass surfaces prior to starting,it softens the hardened polyester resin and promotes better bonding for the new material.Not too much though as it can weaken if left soaked for a while.Anything cured longer than several days will benifit from acetone priming.Clean up brushes and rollers with acetone too.Always give the area a good rough up with coarse paper so that you have exposed the fibres underneath,this will ensure a good bond.If you are only going to prise open a crack and 'glue' it back together with resin,use a decent epoxy rather than polyester resin as it will be far stronger. Hope you are all enjoying the festive season J.

Thanks Jayh

I do my best not to disagree with G these days

From what I know of it, after doing it off and on for 40 years 1 to 2 % of activator gives you are cure time between 8 and 24 hours. 24 hour cure time gives you the strongest and most crack resistant end result. Course it is not always convenient to have such longer cure times and when the ambient temperatures are cooler it can take even longer so yes more activator is often used up to a point. Too much activator gives a very short pot life making the resin difficult or impossible to soak the glass leaving voids and lots of air bubbles that require reworking. A proper penetration of the glass material is what gives the end result the best all around properties. Even more critical when using carbon type matte.

A few years back I did my daughters floor boards in her Daytona in Febraury
I mixed in activator at 1 % cause it needed to be crack free and strong.
The average temp at the time was near freezing. It took two weeks for them to set up even with lamps running 24/7. The end result was perfect,harder tha the original metal and crack free to this day.
I've also before it became illegal here made a few fuel tanks over the years
The ones made up with higher activator concentrations always cracked and leaked fuel in just a few months of use.


jm2c

1% MEKP at near freezing temperatures ? No wonder it took weeks to cure.
If it starts to bubble or crack it`s because of the excessive heat created when curing which only happens if you`re well over the 3%.
Also if you use a resin roller you won`t have problems with trapped air bubbles. This`ll also depend on the sequence you apply the glasfibre mats. Never really had a problem with that unless there were a lot of edges and the weight of the mats was too big so they didn`t adapt to the shape properly.

If you`re only trying to fix some hair line cracks w/o repainting you don`t get near that part with Acetone as it will ruin the paint. If the paint is removed like on the picture above one should definetely do that.

G.