Key Switch

[DucSoup]

I am having much trouble with my key switch and wondering if any 750 owners have tried the relay modifications listed for the 906? Also, anyone put in alternate means of starting? Maybe a touchkey or push switch?

[paso750]

Carl,

if it`s the key switch you can gently open it. Beware that there might be a small metal ball and a spring which get lost very fast.
Usually if there`re some contact problems inside the switch some plastic gets hot, burns and builds up deposists which either make it hard to turn the key or create contact problems.
So take it apart and check if there`re some loose plastic parts inside you can remove with a sharp knife. Then clean all contacts and rebuild it.
I did this years aog and it still works.

Gerhard

[DucSoup]

Thanks Gerhard. I am guessing that it is the switch and also guessing that there may be more than just melted plastic. I do not know for sure but will try and get in there this weekend. It looks lile it is held in by two 5mm allen bolts. Does that sound right to you?

[DucSoup]

Ãbrigens wohnt meine Schwester in Tagmanns, nach Kirchenthumbach (nahe Graffenwhoer). Ich erhalte manchmal nette steins fur meinen Geburtstag:)

Wo sind Sie in der Relation?

[ducapaso]

Hi guy!
I'm Nicola from Italy (sorry for my english language)and I had the same problem because of rain (I found my dukess missed in a field!)
I made a relay plant in order to shortcut all the energy in the fuse related to the ignition key (headlight, start,horn)
I can send yuo a design of my work if you wish, and hope it'll run good in your paso too
ducapaso

[rjc]

Hhmmm... My ignition switch was mounted with 10mm bolts. VERY difficult to get off. I will replace with allen bolts. However, now that I have the switch removed, how do you get it open to clean the contacts? I am not talking about the starter switch, but the key switch. Gerhard/Paso750, how did you get inside?

[ducapaso]

I hope I can suggest you something about ignition switch:
0)ENSURE YOURSELF TO BE A GOOD WATCHMAKER (or to have a spare part aviable!)
1)Disconnect the switch from the main electrical plant
2)Remove it from the steering plate, so you can work on your desk
3)You can see three little plastic grapple in the bottom cap
4)Open it very slowly and take care not to loose springs, balls and nuts (they are very small!)
5)Clean from rost and dirth, lubrificate with special white grease
6)Re-assembly everything (this can be very HARD!!!).
Have a nice ride, Nicola

[DucSoup]

Thanks Nicola and Gerhard. To follow up, I found a key switch unit on eBay and won that auction. When I got it it was rusted and coroded but I did take it apart to learn how it works. The insides had enough usable parts so that I could use them as donors on the switch in my bike. Now all parts are normal but the bike still would not start.

I took the bike to a Ducati place here where it sat in a back room from September through May 6 when I finally went and just picked it up. (It seems they never even took a fairing off!) :toofar: Now it has a dead battery and I am starting over.

Will keep trying, I love how the Paso rides when it is running well.

[PascoPaso]

I am now the owner of DucSoup's 1988 Paso. The bike runs good, but not great because of mixture issues on the MIkuni RS verticle carb. The switch was no good as the contacts go open at times. I have fitted a new Monster switch instead of the original. It is slightly different, took a little wire wizardry and filing at the screw holes, but you cannot really tell the difference. It is new OEM Ducati, not used. The more serious problem for this bike was that the alternator wiring melted and fused together at the connector under the tank. This is now spliced, soldered, and has heat shrink applied. This should handle the current and keep the water out at the same time. I plan on rewiring the regulator to a relay for regulator-battery-alternator failure isolation. Then a new ignition circuit with fuse, relay, and wiring. The little things ad up to major things.

[jcslocum]

I'm a little late on this but what is the syptoms with the switch??

[PascoPaso]

Hi Jon, The original switch was defective, open I think. Carl repaired the original with parts from another switch. When I tested the switch the ohm readings varied from 2-100 ohms. Plus keeping the switch together was going to require glue or other creative methods. I did not want to have problems while riding and another used switch did not seem like the way to go.

Mark
1988 750 Paso
1981/82 Honda GL1100
1983 Toyota Celica GTS
1984 Toyota Celica GT
1987 Honda Civic

[jcslocum]

OK. Has the wiring been changed yet?

[PascoPaso]

I just wanted to say that the ignition from the Monster worked pretty well for me. I would not recommend this for everyone, as a mistake can be costly. Besides, it is not original anymore. The old switch can be changed back, if needed though. One important thing to consider is that when I was done I realized that the cover where the key goes in is 180 degrees from the original. You can change this with some cuts to the plastic cover after it is removed and then reinstalled, but I left it the way it is. A switch from another model of Duc might be a better choice, and I will keep my eyes open for that. The wire colors were the same as Paso, so the wring was a strait splice, with switch functions matching the Paso too. Another point is that the screw holes are slightly narrower, and require some fine metal work on the holes, as well as two rectangular custom made washers to keep the switch from coming loose from the bike.

The next thing for me is to to try and figure out what to do about the Mikuni (a trick Sudco RS38 setup?) carbs and was hoping someone could give me some advice? I have no plans to race, but to just ride with my son who has a CBR600F4.